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Next spring’s fishing plans can quickly turn to frustration if you leave your boat poorly winterized. Months of disuse during freezing winters can corrode or crack fittings and hoses and render outboards and pumps fouled and broken. 

Even if you live in a warm region, the season’s relentless cold fronts and stiffer winds can keep you and your boat off the water for months. Conversely, some boaters leave their vessels parked all summer in Florida while they retreat up north for cooler temperatures.

“We use the phrase ‘extended storage’ when we talk about protecting an outboard,” says David Meeler, Yamaha’s product information manager. “So whether you’re putting the boat up for winter or going north for the summer, much of the process is still the same.”

The center-console, outboard-powered boats that a great majority of saltwater anglers use require specific but not onerous storage prep. Much can be done by the boat owner, although dealers are well-equipped to assist, particularly on the Northeast coast where prolonged and harsh cold weather demands additional care to vessels.

“We have some guys dropping their boats off here in mid-September, and they stay until April or May,” says Don Ditzel, vice president of Comstock Yacht Sales & Marina in Brick Township, New Jersey. When Comstock techs haul out a boat, they prep it for winter by running nontoxic antifreeze through all the water systems, including sinks, toilets, ice makers, washdown pumps—whether fresh or salt water. “Water freezes, it expands and cracks fittings,” Ditzel says. “We’re just replacing the water with antifreeze.”

For instance, with a sink, the process involves connecting the antifreeze container to the existing freshwater pump, and then turning on the faucet and letting the fluid course through the pipes until it exits the faucet. On a boat, air-conditioning units are water-cooled, so the same process applies, he says. 

 Often, techs also will pull the drain hose off the fish boxes so that if any water collects, it can exit.

With electronics, Ditzel says Comstock used to remove the multifunction displays. But with flush-mounted systems, that’s inconvenient. So, be sure to check the temperature rating for your MFDs.

The majority of boaters shrink-wrap their vessels for storage or use a boat cover. If shrink-wrapping a vessel with a radar array or dome, be careful not to wrap it too tightly.  

Turn off the circuit breakers to your electronics. If you store your boat on land, you also can disconnect your batteries by removing the leads, and then attach the batteries to a trickle charger to keep them topped off during your break. If you leave your boat in the water, you must have power for your bilge pumps.

Anglers with onboard security systems must also keep them powered if they’re concerned about theft. But you can also use these systems to monitor your vessel remotely to check voltages and set alerts in case something goes wrong.

Meeler says stabilizing the fuel aboard your vessel ranks as a top consideration for storage, particularly if you use ethanol blends. Select a butanol-based stabilizer rather than one that is alcohol-based. A general rule of thumb is to leave your fuel tank 7/8 full and stabilized. Be sure to run some of that stabilized fuel through your engine so it enters the fuel-injection system.

If you store your boat and fuel-injected engine on a lift over salt water, Meeler suggests running fogging oil—a heavy oil-to-fuel mixture—through the outboard by connecting a small tank of that mixture to the main fuel inlet.

Whenever possible, store the engine fully down and trimmed in so any water runs out the lower unit. If you can’t do that, put a contractor-type trash bag over the lower unit and secure it with a bungee.

Meeler says boaters don’t have to flush outboards with antifreeze—that’s more of an inboard or inboard/outboard need—but some dealers do it as an extra precaution. Change out inline fuel filters and the water-separation filter, and change the engine and lower-unit oil. And don’t reuse the crush washers that fit on the ends of the screws for the engine oil and gear lube drain/fill ports.

“Spend a little time on the trailer too so that there are no pressure points beneath the boat,” Meeler says. “It’s commonsense stuff. Take a little extra time, and you’ll have a calmer mind while you’re away from your boat.”

Ethanol Checklist

1. Long-term boat storage calls for steps to prevent damage-inducing phase separation in the fuel tank when using ethanol-laced gasoline.
2. When ethanol in the gas absorbs too much moisture (from tank condensation, for example), it separates into a corrosive, noncombustible layer at the tank’s bottom, as illustrated here.
3. To prevent phase separation during storage, fill the tank to 7/8 full (to minimize condensation) using non-ethanol fuel where available.
4. With or without ethanol-laced gas, treat the fuel with a butanol-based stabilizer for long-term storage.

The post Boat Winterization Tips appeared first on Salt Water Sportsman.

Consider the basic anatomy of a boat: exterior, interior, engine. On that level, a boat is not so different from a car—with one huge exception. Saltwater fishing boats live in a hyper-corrosive environment.

While a car owner can periodically schedule automotive upkeep projects such as washing and waxing, a saltwater-boat owner should be more vigilant. But that doesn’t always happen. 

One particular area of common neglect is boat seats. “Especially for boats in saltwater, you’d want to clean the fiberglass, the decking and the upholstery after each use,” says Nick Covey, marketing manager for Llebroc Industries, which makes a wide variety of boat seats.

Covey says the main upholstery issues the company sees include rust, which can emanate from a bad staple when vinyl is not properly dried; mold or pinking (mold underneath vinyl); or stains such as ink. Other common substances such as fish blood and sunscreen come off fairly easily.

He adds that pinking has become less of a problem since the EPA set new regulations on vinyl materials. Still, mold and mildew on a surface are common. The No. 1 culprit: Leaving your seat bolster flipped up after a wash.

“Vinyl has a unique role on a boat,” says Derick Cote, Star brite’s director of sales and marketing. “Not only is it a surface that is constantly sat on—so it must remain flexible and comfortable— but it always faces the sun, so it’s getting UV rays.”

Every time salt water splashes on the vinyl surface, it leaves salt crystals that can be abrasive. A general wash removes much of the salt, but other products can help further clean, condition and protect vinyl, conceivably for the life of the vessel.

While most experts agree about the frequency of washing, they don’t always agree on all of the do’s and don’ts. For instance, some say household soaps can be used to clean upholstery. Others say substances such as Dawn or Ivory can cause yellowing, and they strip polymers such as wax and UV protectants.

Some say a soft brush is OK to use on vinyl, while others say no brushes. A soft mitt, sponge or cloth is recommended.

Three agreed-upon rules of thumb:

• Don’t use a power washer. The force of the water can damage vinyl.
• Avoid substances with high alcohol content, such as the common car-vinyl product Armor All and 409, which can dry out vinyl and lead to cracking.
• Avoid bleach or anything abrasive.

Covey says Llebroc recently partnered with the company Bling, and he recommends its products, such as Vinyl Sauce and Condition Sauce. He says that for the newer cool-touch vinyls and synthetic leathers, the Mild Soap Sauce works best.

Star brite’s Cote offers the following outline for a proper cleaning, conditioning and protecting process with its products:

• Use a proper boat soap mixed with water to remove much of the salt and dirt, followed by a product like Salt Off, which dissolves and removes crystals. 
• After the wash, you might find additional dirt that needs a chelating agent, such as Ultimate Vinyl Clean, Cote says. 
• A product such as Star brite’s Magic Sponge also can be used sparingly on stubborn stains. But Cote cautions that all vinyl has a wear layer, and Magic Sponge can diminish that. “It’s like a pencil eraser,” he says. “It has a little bit of abrasive.” 
• To treat mildew, apply Mildew Stain Remover and let it sit. An oxidation reaction takes place that eliminates the stain. Rinse well. If you frequently see mildew stains, you can opt for Mildew Stain Blocker.
• Finally, use a PTFE polymer product like Ultimate Vinyl Guard that conditions and protects against UV rays and stains. It’s important that vinyl remains supple, particularly thinner vinyl materials that must flex.

“Conditioning is the main thing,” Covey says. “A conditioner holds the moisture in the vinyl to extend its life span. And be sure your upholstery is dry before you cover it.”

Silicone Vs. Vinyl

In the last few years, boat manufacturers such as Robalo and Chaparral have tested and implemented silicone fabrics in their boat seats. The benefits include increased stain resistance without the need for additional topcoats. 

“You can see [the blood or water] bead up on it like on a freshly waxed car,” says Joe Pegg, Robalo’s regional sales director. “Silicone is naturally UV protecting; it better resists suntan-spray staining, pinking, mildew and mold.

It’s also softer and more heat-resistant, and most dirt can be removed with soap and water.”

The main downside is that silicone costs three and a half times more than vinyl. 

The post Boat Seat Maintenance appeared first on Salt Water Sportsman.

I’m a compact packer. When it comes to whittling wants down to necessities, I get competitive. But when you travel by boat, sometimes your ability to pack the kitchen sink makes or breaks a trip. Those who trailer their boats to fun destinations can pack the boat and the truck, but those who run a boat on its own bottom to distant locales should take greater pains to plan wisely.

The gear you carry with you also evolves based on trip duration, number of crew, boat size and travel distance.

To help you decide what to take, I talked with tournament traveling captain and charter guide Mark Henderson of Liquid Fire Fishing in North Carolina, as well as experts from West Marine and Star brite. 

First Aid

Of key importance, captains should carry bandaging supplies and peroxide, or something else that will kill germs. Hook injuries and cuts caused by fish teeth and fins top the list of on-water accidents. If you travel to remote locations, pack a suture kit, and don’t forget to remind passengers to bring extra supplies of their medications.

In addition, a topical ointment, mild painkillers such as ibuprofen, scissors, tourniquets and seasickness meds should make the list, especially if your destination lies far away from a convenient drugstore. 

Henderson keeps first-aid products in labeled plastic boxes, all tucked inside a waterproof bag. West Marine sells pre-made kits by Orion in Coastal, Cruiser, Offshore or Blue Water versions ($19.99 to $74.99). Look for “Selecting a Boating Medical Kit” in the company’s West Advisor articles.

Tools and Spare Parts

If you trailer your boat, you can stow more tools and spare parts in your truck bed beyond what you take aboard. You’ll also want to pack gear to maintain your trailer on the road. 

When heading offshore, Henderson keeps a case of basic wrenches and screwdrivers, a breaker bar and a prop wrench on his SeaVee 390Z. He also carries an alternator belt, a full set of spark plugs, a fuel filter and wrench, an ignition wire/coil pack, duct tape, CRC 6-56 and penetrating oil, a manual bilge pump, and emergency plugs that can stopper holes.

Because his vessel sports quad Mercury Verado 400 outboards, Henderson doesn’t worry about carrying a spare prop or a battery jump-starter. But on boats with fewer engines, those items should be considered.

West Marine sells a product made by Ancor called Repair Tape ($13.49), which remains flexible throughout a wide range of temperatures. A basic set of wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers and pliers of different sizes called the Stowaway Tool Kit costs $39.99.

For the rare emergency, Star brite suggests packing an epoxy putty stick ($20) to plug small holes, even below the waterline. Liquid electrical tape ($15) can be painted over wires or electrical panels to create a waterproof, removable seal. If you island-hop or travel internationally, a fuel treatment like Star Tron ($11) can save the day if you encounter questionable fuel. 

Read Next: Boat Trailer Maintenance Tips

Cleaning Supplies

Star brite recommends a few basic cleaning supplies for traveling boaters, including a good boat soap that can handle all surfaces, a spray-on speed detailer, and a general cleaner and degreaser that can dissolve everything from food spills to pogy mung and fish blood. Keep a microfiber wash mitt handy at all times.

For boats with heads, carry some form of treatment aboard. For a long weekend trip, a chemical-based deodorizer should suffice; for longer trips, consider a bacteria- or enzyme-based solution.

Snap and Zipper Lubricant ($16) helps keep enclosures operational, particularly important for stay-aboard trips.

In addition to cleaning products, Henderson keeps at least three 5-gallon buckets aboard, as well as a telescoping pole and medium-bristle brush. Most captains know that scrubbing off blood and fish slime quickly after they boat a catch can eliminate baked-on stains back at the dock. 

Henderson also carries Salt-X and Rain-X to battle corrosion and keep the windshield and isinglass fog-free.

As spring weather warms up your travel bug, start creating checklists and kits, and stow them in easy-to-reach dry cubbies aboard your vessel. Preventing issues and problems through preparation can deliver the ultimate remote fishing experience. 

Basic Packing List

First Aid

• Bandaging supplies 
• Suture kit and scissors
• Peroxide
• Ibuprofen 
• Seasickness meds
• Tourniquets

Tools and Parts

• Basic tool set
• Prop wrench 
• Alternator belt
• Spark plugs
• Fuel filter and wrench
• Ignition wire/coil 
• Duct tape
• Penetrating oil
• Manual bilge pump 
• Emergency plugs 
• Epoxy putty stick 
• Liquid electrical tape 

Cleaning 

• Boat soap
• Cleaner/degreaser 
• 5-gallon buckets (three or more)
• Medium-bristle boat brush

The post How to Prep Your Boat for a Trip appeared first on Salt Water Sportsman.

Before 2020, replacing an outboard usually took a week or two, but now you might have to wait as long as six months. That is if the dealer can even get the motor you want and the accompanying digital controls, a tough task at a time when new-boater interest has soared, and pandemic-related production and supply-chain disruptions hampered countless manufacturers worldwide.

Outboard-makers are fighting back and seem optimistic about spring’s outlook, adopting measures to overcome the hurdles of today’s market and meet the demand from boatbuilders and boat owners looking to repower. 

“We’re doing everything we can to build inventory,” says Gus Blakely, Suzuki’s executive vice president of sales and service. “We put some production increases in place in September, and more in January. There is light at the end of the tunnel.”

If you want to keep your current boat but are hankering for more power, experiencing engine failure or fear an impending breakdown, the first step is to get on a waiting list for a new outboard at your local dealership right away. Know, however, that the needs of new-boat builders often trump those of repower consumers.

Nevertheless, you could shorten the wait by managing your expectations and opting for one of the following compromises:

1. Switch from a single high-horsepower engine to twin outboards of equivalent power. Blakely and other industry insiders say smaller engines can be easier to find than those in the more coveted 175 to 300 hp sweet spot.
2. Research lower-horsepower options. While experts recommend buying the maximum horsepower your boat can handle so the engine will operate efficiently with less stress, you can opt for a smaller outboard in a pinch. Just lower your expectations when it comes to speed and don’t always push for peak performance. 
3. Look for used outboard availability. The dealer-locator function on various outboard manufacturers’ websites can help. Some even allow you to select “repower dealers” or “repower centers,” which specialize in repowering boats versus outfitting new boats, and some take trade-ins to resell. 

Outboard-makers confirmed that there’s no set number of hours that signal it’s time to repower. As with today’s cars, well-maintained outboards usually operate efficiently longer than their counterparts from previous generations. “The number of hours on a motor is a personal and regional thing,” says Ry Landry, Yamaha product education manager. “Up north, where the season is short, 100 hours in a summer could be a lot. Down south, 100 hours could be a few weeks or even a single one.”

Other reasons to repower include gaining access to the latest technology, such as joystick maneuvering, digital electric steering, autopilot systems and networkable gauges. If you own an old two-stroke outboard, you’ll also buy into better fuel efficiency, performance and dependability with a four-stroke. 

Note that some older boats might be candidates for horsepower upsizing. In some cases, the power rating of the original two-stroke outboards on said boats was limited because bigger engines simply did not exist at the time. Dealers can check with the boat manufacturer for the current horsepower recommendation for a specific model.

Read Next: Outboard Motor Maintenance Guide

Many boat owners repower when their motor’s warranty nears expiration. Just like car owners who turn over their vehicles every three to five years, some boaters prefer not to risk potential breakdowns as an outboard ages. Some buy extended warranties so they can transfer some coverage to a new buyer, boosting the motor’s resale value. If either sounds like your MO, get on the waiting list for a new motor now.

Take into account that repowering with the same outboard brand could enable you to keep the controls and gauges you currently own. But if the jump involves newer digital technology or switching brands, the additional hardware becomes necessary, and as with some outboards today, those parts might be difficult to find.

Ultimately, the best source for information on availability, cost and options is a local outboard dealer. Some even let you sea-trial a boat to experience the specific engine and its controls. 

With Mercury outboards, for instance, boat owners find a wide variety of choices, from basic motors to high-tech systems. A dealer can listen to an angler’s needs and concerns, and recommend the best engine for his or her budget based on availability. They’ll also help manage expectations. 

The post Solutions for Repowering Now appeared first on Salt Water Sportsman.

I‘ll admit my trailer gets less than its share of love. But unlike the sleek sheerline of a boat, a metal frame with wheels does not scream beauty. Pity. Trailers need attention too.

Anglers routinely dunk their trailer axles and wiring into corrosive salt water and travel hundreds of miles pulling heavy boats on diminutive tires. Big-boat trailers that feature brakes must stop 6 tons or more of fiberglass and engines from plowing into their tow vehicles.

To deliver the respect this equipment deserves, keep up with regular and seasonal maintenance and inspections. How much you must do depends upon how far and how often you trailer your boat.

Small skiffs and lighter bay boats generally pair with single- or dual-axle trailers. Heavier boats pair with dual- or triple-axle trailers. State law dictates which trailers must feature brakes. (Often 3,000 pounds of gross weight is the parameter.)

Charter captain Tommy Derringer, of Inshore Adventures in St. Augustine, Florida, runs several boats, including a Maverick 18 HPX and a Pathfinder 2300 HPS. The former rides on a single-axle trailer without brakes. The latter rides on a dual-axle trailer with brakes.

“The one thing I definitely do when I first get these trailers (and at least four times a year) is I look at all the electrical connections,” Derringer says, noting that he trailers his boats about 20 miles daily and occasionally for family trips. “I liquid-tape any splice in any wire to make sure they’re waterproof.”

Derringer says he also learned a valuable tip from a fellow guide: Buy a portable sprayer like the ones used to apply pesticide and fill it with water and a product like Salt Off. Spray your trailer right after you launch your boat, before you park it in the sun all day.

Tournament angler Mark Maus, who pulls his Yellowfin 36 on a triple-axle trailer, says he invested in an onboard wash system that features a small water tank and a 12-volt pump. Such systems are sold by some trailer manufacturers. Other anglers use products such as cordless electric pressure washers.

Because he drives about 35,000 miles a year to tournaments, Maus replaces his three sets of trailer tires on a rotating basis. Each year, he replaces one pair. (The recommended tire-change interval for more average travel is four to five years.) “Even if a tire looks great, it doesn’t matter. You can create so much heat [traveling] that they will separate. One thing you don’t scrimp on is trailer tires,” he says.

1. A portable ramp helps elevate a tire without having to use a jack. Make a graduated ramp like this one from pieces of two-by-six lumber.
2. Drive the trailer onto the ramp to lift the adjacent tire off the ground for easier changing or service.

Trailer-makers such as AmeraTrail suggest blocking and covering trailer tires during storage because rubber degrades when exposed to sunlight and rots when in contact with the ground.

Read Next: Protect Your Trailer From Salt Water

Maus also replaces his brake pads and repacks his wheel bearings once a year. If he makes a long run of several hundred miles, he gives the bearings five to eight squirts of grease before the return trip.

Maus’ list of gear to carry includes spare hubs, a grease gun, roadside triangles, a hydraulic jack, an electric impact wrench, a T-wrench, and a low ramp made from 12-inch two-by-six lumber. “I can pull a tire up on [the ramp], and it lifts the adjacent tire off the ground,” he says. “That way I don’t have to jack the trailer up to change a tire.”

1. Check tire pressure at least once a month. The correct psi should be on the tire sidewall. Keep an inexpensive air pump with an extension cord in your tow vehicle.
2. Change brake pads every year. “People who don’t use their boats a lot don’t realize that those brakes can stop working,” Derringer says.
3. Inspect and change or add grease to hubs as needed. “That’s a silent killer right there,” he says. “Depending on how much water has gotten into the bearings, or if they’ve just dried up, things start to seize up.”
4. Check your wheel lug nuts for tightness. “Take them all the way off and put a little grease on them before you put them back.”
5. Every six months, apply a ceramic-coating sealer to the aluminum.

The post Boat Trailer Maintenance Tips appeared first on Salt Water Sportsman.

When it comes to boat cleaning and maintenance, a trip to the local grocery store yields several useful items. White vinegar, Dawn dishwasher detergent and canning wax are cheap, yet effective. Here are their best applications:

White vinegar: Vinegar has many uses besides pickling and coleslaw. Add a good splash to the five-gallon bucket when washing the boat helps reduce the calcium and spots associated with hard water. It won’t damage gel coat or brightwork. Vinegar is also a useful additive to periodically de-scale outboards. Add a gallon to a 55-gallon drum or plastic barrel filled with water, tilt the engine into drum and crank it up. The warm, recirculating flow with the cleansing properties of vinegar will remove crud from the cooling system and leave it shiny clean.

Dawn Detergent is biodegradable, yet it cuts grease efficiently. Use a soapy solution to clean the engine of excess grease or exhaust soot. It does double duty for trailer hubs and wheels. A squirt of Dawn makes a great hand-cleaner after changing the lower unit oil or greasing the engine. It can also be used as a bilge cleaner. Add a generous amount to a bucket of water, along with a splash of bleach and dump it into the bilge to soak briefly. Rinse and open the garboard plug to drain.

Household paraffin wax has many uses besides canning and candle-making. It’s cheap, comes in handy bar sizes and works well to lubricate and waterproof zippers on boat cushions or weather curtains. Waxing the carpeted bunks on boat trailers makes launching and recovery easier, too. To apply, launch the boat, park the trailer in a sunny spot and go fishing. When you come back, before re-loading, use a bar to liberally rub the carpeted horizontal and side guide bunks. Carpet warmed by the sun makes spreading easier. It may take a couple applications to thoroughly embed the wax into the carpet, but once applied it lasts for months. A word of caution, though: Make sure the boat is over the water before unhooking the tow strap or safety chain or the hull may have an unwelcome encounter with concrete.

The post 3 Household Products to Use on a Boat appeared first on Salt Water Sportsman.

Start by replacing all the engine filters. They are probably due anyway and that will be one less chore to complete when warmer weather does return. Change the gear case oil and lubricate all grease fittings. Afterwards, tilt the engine down to drain any remaining water.

Pull the propeller and inspect the lower unit seals for fishing lines, debris. Grease the shaft with a waterproof grease and re-install the prop, torquing to the proper tightness.

Spray the engine and electrical panels with a water-displaying treatment to protect against corrosion.

Change the engine spark plugs and anodes if necessary.

Fog or run the engine’s winterization procedure. There’s still a debate about whether to top off the tank during storage to avoid condensation with ethanol gas. Check with your service technician for a recommendation. Marine (non-ethanol) gas isn’t a problem. Adding a fuel stabilizer to either formula certainly won’t hurt, though.

Disconnect the batteries and store them in a cool, dry spot that won’t freeze. To avoid the risk of cracking battery cases, don’t store them directly on concrete.

Drain all water systems (potable, bait wells, holding tanks) to prevent frozen lines.

Inspect the trailer frame, hardware and tires. Replace any worn or damaged parts.

Cover or shrink wrap the boat if it will be stored outside. Use PVC pipe or wooden dowels to “tent” the cover so snow won’t accumulate and tear the material.

The post Winterizing a Boat appeared first on Salt Water Sportsman.

Achieving optimum performance from your boat depends on several factors, including hull design, horsepower, propellers, weight and wetted surface area.

Anything that adds more friction impacts speed, handling and fuel economy. That’s why keeping hulls that remain in the water for extended periods free of marine growth is so critical. The saltwater environment is an incubator for algae, slime and barnacles, and all negatively affect performance. Fortunately, the right bottom paint, properly applied, will significantly alleviate this problem.

“It’s important to match products to the environment. Bottom paints are formulated to meet different conditions and salinity levels,” says Tom Maellaro, a technical expert with Pettit Paint. “For example, a Florida or Southeast boater who doesn’t pull the boat annually needs a paint with a higher biocide content. With the right paint, they can probably get 18 to 24 months of service life from a paint job.”

Anti-fouling or bottom paint is made from four ingredients. The resin holds the coating film and controls the release of the biocide. Pigments provide the color and thickness, while solvents (or water) help with the application, flow and drying time. Biocides are the active compounds that repel fouling. Cuprous oxide, which contains copper, is the most common. Copper thiocyanate contains less copper content but produces brighter colors. Irgarol is an organic algaecide with a slow leach rate, and Econea is a metal-free biodegradable biocide. The Environmental Protection Agency regulates the use of biocides in the paint industry.

Biocides are designed to leach out over time so weed and animal growth won’t adhere to the submerged surface. Ablative anti-fouling formulas, the most common and typically with the highest copper content, require boat movement to work, like a bar of soap. As the paint and biocides wear off over time, new layers are exposed. Hard anti-fouling paints leach biocides while the paint mainly remains. Movement isn’t required, but this type needs to be reapplied after dry storage. Hybrid formulas are another type of hard paint best suited for trailerable and dry-rack stored boats. As the biocides leach away, the paint film breaks down to expose another layer.

“It’s cheap insurance to buy better bottom paint to match your environment,” Maellaro says. “The biggest expense is the prep and application. If you keep a boat in a slip year-round in high salinity and warm water that’s conducive to soft growth, pick a paint with a larger amount of ­Irgarol. If you want bright colors, go with copper thiocyanate. Eighty percent of painted hulls are black, 10 percent are blue, and everything else is other colors.”

Proper prep and applying multiple thin layers are the keys to longer-lasting paint jobs, Maellaro says. He recommends leaving spray application to the professionals. Do-it-yourself rollers can determine the square footage of the boat by multiplying the hull length by beam width by 0.85. Two coats of paint are normally recommended. Painting can take a few days, depending on weather, preparation and hull design. Stepped hulls or numerous lifting strakes may require hand-­sanding, which increases man-hours.

Linda McDonald with Dog River Marina in Mobile, Alabama, says she’s seeing more customers choosing to ­bottom-paint themselves. The ­marina will haul the boat out and do the ­advance prep work.

“We start by pressure washing the hull in the wet slip area,” McDonald says. “That really removes a lot of the growth. We then soda-blast the entire bottom to scour it and remove any old, loose paint. We don’t sand at all anymore because of the environmental concerns. The soda blasting is very effective.” Costs run $45 per foot for larger craft, or $1,500 to $2,000 for smaller boats. Those fees do not include the haul-outs.

Read Next: Improve Your Boat’s Fuel Efficiency and Range

The next step in the process is the application of a barrier coat of primer, followed by two coats of the selected bottom paint.

Whether done professionally or by yourself, there’s a trend of adding a fishy wrinkle whenever the bottom is painted. Companies such as Sea Hawk Paints, FishRazr and Stencil Ease offer stencils or adhesive baitfish stickers to create optical illusions on hull bottoms. Single fish or schools of squid, flying fish, ballyhoo, mackerel and tuna are available. The jury is still out as far as effectiveness. But since the boat is a giant teaser and the bottom needs attention anyway, it can’t hurt, especially if a few more fish pop into the spread.

The post Anti-Fouling Bottom Paint appeared first on Salt Water Sportsman.

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